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Isle of Lewis and Harris – camping in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides

February 10, 2019

In August last year we borrowed my parents camper van again and set off for Scotland. It had been two years since our last trip across the highlands to the Isle of Mull, and this time we were heading to the Isle of Lewis and Harris to explore Scotland’s Outer Hebrides.

The drive all in one from Hertfordshire was too long for us so we stopped off in the Cairngorms on our first night to wild camp amongst the pine trees on the shores of Loch Garten.

We then drove on towards Ullapool spending a few days just North of it near to Achiltibuie, staying at Port a Bhaigh Campsite.

The weather was pretty gloomy but the campsite has lovely views out to the Summer Isle’s and it’s worth pitching up on the edge of the beach if you can. The campsite has a modern shower and toilet block with fridges and indoor washing up sinks too. To book in we went into the pub opposite where the bar staff gave us all the information needed.

The next couple of days were spent exploring the area, cycling to beaches and eyeing up dreamy Scottish Crofters houses.

A couple of days later, we hopped on the ferry from Ullapool to Stornaway and arrived in the Isle of Lewis, drove South down to Harris and set up at Horgabost campsite.

The location of this campsite is what makes it extra special, right on the edge of Horgabost beach. The campsite itself is split in two by the campsite road – one half is next to the beach but has no access for cars, the other half has car access, allowing you to park up right next to your tent and that’s where most of the camper vans were. The facilities are basic and the showers are a £1, run on a token system. There’s a small shop open at brief times in the mornings (best to check the times when you get there). The campsite was very busy in the peak of summer and although not over crowded, it meant that queues were likely with the showers and toilets.

Horgabost beach is stunning, especially in the sunshine. Showing off those tropical colours and Harris blues.

Make sure to check out Talla na Mara nearby and The Anchorage in Leverburgh for excellent food.

Beautiful white sands and turquoise sea at Luskentyre Beach

After a few days in Harris we headed back up North to Lewis, stopping of at Isle of Harris Distillers on our way to pick up a bottle of Isle of Harris Gin.

The next part of our trip took us close to Uig Sands, where we mostly wild camped on top of a cliff at a peaceful and remote bay, aptly named Cliff Beach. We were treated to incredible views out to sea and majestic sea eagle’s flying right above us.

Whilst we were here we made use of the facilities at Ardroil Campsite right on the beach at Uig Sands, where wild campers are welcome for a small donation.

There were some really amazing food spots near to here, starting with Uig Scollop Shack; a family run business with fresh hand dived scallops available to buy and a small cafe with a selection of freshly made seafood dishes.

Uig Lodge salmon smokery was the second food spot on our list for this area, their smoked salmon is incredible and although pricey, once you’ve tasted it you’ll know that it’s worth it.

Making our way back down south through the highlands we stopped off in Plockton and made our way home back to Hertfordshire, calling an end to another brilliant trip to Scotland exploring the Isle of Lewis and Harris.

By thecampsitejournal

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  • John Thomson

    23rd July 2020 at 12:50 pm


    Enjoying your pics and commentary. Fidden Farm Mull and Arisaig are both great locations though better a bit out of the main season. June can be a good month. You need a couple of kayaks to really get the benefit. The Summer Isles is excellent for kayaking.

    I recommend following the coastal route from Plockton to Ullapool than the coastal route from Achiltibuie north. Lots of camping sites and beautiful scenery.

    Tiree with two bikes and a tent is stunning if the weather is kind.

    1. thecampsitejournal

      7th October 2020 at 1:39 pm

      Hi John, thanks for your tips. They all sound like great recommendations, will take a look! We haven’t been to Tiree yet but kind weather is always a plus.

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